Mofongo is the island’s signature dish, a fried plantain mash, often served – as we would find out in the coming days – with either chicken or pork, and sometimes slathered with a garlic sauce. Instead, my husband and I had our first taste of the mighty mofongo. We began our unscripted day by sitting down at the counter in Manolin, a diner-style restaurant, for brunch: we had hoped for breakfast, but were too late. I had never seen anywhere so colourful, and the self-guided tour went out the window in favour of my favourite way of exploring somewhere new: aimless wandering. Instead, after just a few steps into the World Heritage Site that is the Old Town of Puerto Rico’s capital, I was mesmerized. It was all arranged: we would visit the tourist office, collect the map for the self-guided historical walking tour of Old San Juan, and follow the instructions.
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